The trend is to use HVLP spray guns for painting with water-based paints and guns Trans-Tech or hybrid for painting with solvent paints or for coating.
The most important part of a paint gun is air cap. It is the part where air and paint mix and the size and design of this piece depends on paint consumption and quality of the painting since it depends on the color mix well with air and reaches the part we are painting. It is perhaps the fundamental difference between a cheap and a real gun.
Shape, number and size of the holes depend on volume and speed of air passing through them, and therefore if the gun is classified as conventional, HVLP or Trans Tech (hybrid).
Another key element is the peak/needle assembly. This set acts dosing valve and painting and works by the venturi effect created by the air coming from inside the gun and passes round the end of the spout to finish out the head.
This air sprayed paint transported from the gun to the part to be painted, and as we tighten more or less the gun trigger will open or close the passage of paint and can paint with more or less paint. You can go my site to see more about best automotive spray gun.
The needle is seen in the photos fits perfectly inside the peak plugging the center hole. Pulling the trigger move the needle back pass allowing paint the gap left enters the two pieces, and this painting is drawn by the air flow as seen in the illustration on the left.
Sectional view of a fluid tip mounted with its head air.
It fits the hole where the needle is clearly visible.
- Paint guns are classified by the size of the fluid tip. According to the painting that we will use, we’ll use a gun with a range or smaller peak.
- Water-based paint: Step 1.2 mm or 1.3 mm. Recommended HVLP or hybrid.
- Paint solvent: Step 1.2 or 1.3 mm. Hybrid recommended.
- Layer: Step 1.2 mm or 1.3 mm, not recommended HVLP.
- Primers: Step 1.6 to 1.8 mm. Recommended hybrid or HVLP
- Tackles high thickness: 2.5 mm or 2.0 Step.
Normally guns have two positions: If you press the trigger only a little will air, and at one point we will notice that it becomes a little harder, to continue tightening will start out painting.
At the rear is a threaded regulator serving painting, as is tighter, less paint will. This thread all it does is limit the movement of the needle thus preventing a mistake by spending too much paint and let provoke one pick.
Exploded view of a paint gun.
If the gun has a minimum quality, usually you have another regulator to vary the spray paint pattern as shown in the illustration above, where the spring causes the needle back into position when we release the trigger is also appreciated.
This controller can vary the spray pattern of paint from one round to another elongated (fan) as we can see on the right and in the diagram below.
This serves to paint large surfaces without noticeable past as would occur with a round jet.
Different forms of paint spray
Sometimes we find a third regulator to provide more or less air passage. Usually, it placed at the bottom of the gun, right where the air inlet. This is more common in high-end guns, but ideally to avoid working to undue pressure is to use an air regulator to the gun bay. Thus we will know exactly which pressure work.
Pictured left this regulator and the air inlet fitting where it is convenient to mount a regulator with pressure gauge shown.
Some carry guns as integrated, but can be inconvenient if damaged. Preferably a separate element.
In the same photograph, they appreciate some of the nylon joints having a paint gun. Usually with pico-needle assembly parts that require more maintenance.
A paint gun may be eternal, but it depends on the maintenance, and proper use has been given. Beatings, use of inadequate tools and especially lack of cleanliness are the greatest enemies of a gun.
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